Category Archives: How To

How To: Charlton’s Lettering Guide

Images © Charlton Comics or the respective copyright holders.

Yesterday I wrote about the Famous Artists lesson on lettering and showed this mini-comic cover, mentioning it contained the only information I could find on comics lettering when I was trying to get into the business in the mid 70s. I got it then, and I believe I still have it somewhere, but haven’t seen my copy in many years. Several readers sent me the entire booklet in PDF form, so I thought I’d write about what it contains on comics lettering, a mere four pages out of 36, but it was enlightening to me then, and is still somewhat useful now for anyone interested in hand-lettering.

I’m putting the first and last of the four pages together because they contain continuous text, with the pages between having drawn instructions and samples. So, let’s look at what’s written here. Everything is short and to the point.

A. TOOLS: Speedball B-6 is what many letterers were using when I started at DC, but for regular balloon lettering they usually filed down the sides of the point to make a thinner line, a tricky job that I never really mastered. I did nearly all my balloon lettering with technical drawing pens instead for my first few years. When I tried dip pens again, I used a C-6 wedge-tipped point instead of the rounded B-6. Also note that the name of the plastic lettering guide is misspelled, it’s “Ames.” Most of this is covered better in the drawing below.

B. YOU BEGIN TO LETTER: The one thing I highly disagree with here is the last sentence, “Some letterers prefer to underline emphasized words.” Maybe someone at Charlton did that, though I don’t recall seeing it, but at DC and Marvel, no one did that. I tried it occasionally when the script called for a hand-written note, and was once reprimanded by Julie Schwartz for it. “Nothing in comics is underlined!” he told me. (I still do it for hand-written notes…)

D. BALLOONS: The description and differences between Dialogue and Thought balloon shapes point out one of the problems with the older style of dialogue balloons, which where shaped with large, wide scallops (see the examples below). When you do that, there’s less to set them apart from thought balloons which also have scallops, though smaller and more of them. Of course these days thought balloons are rare, so it’s not much of an issue, but the movement to mostly oval and round speech balloons can be seen as a way to keep them separate from thought balloons visually.

E. PANELS: I kind of miss inking panel borders, one of the letterer’s jobs for the vast majority of comics art when I started, and until computer lettering took over. A few artists insisted on inking their own borders, but most were happy to have the letterer do it. Now it’s often the inker’s job, and the inker also has to completely ink all the art even where the lettering will cover it, where with hand-lettering part of each panel was already accounted for. No wonder inkers hate computer lettering!

G. SWIPES: I never really had this, just a large comics collection. When I was on staff at DC, of course, the world’s greatest swipe file was right in the Production Room, rows of file cabinets with all kinds of reference: logos, panels clipped from old comics art, cover photostats, piles of original cover lettering by Gaspar Saladino and others. And mine, too, after I was there a while.

Here’s the first of two hand-lettered pages by Frank Bravo, dated 1973. I don’t know the name, but Charlton didn’t always give lettering credits, so that’s not surprising. As a letterer he wasn’t really that good. His basic alphabets are okay, but some of the other work on the open title here and the display lettering on the next page is barely of professional quality. Perhaps he was a staffer who pitched in on lettering when needed. And remember, Charlton was kind of the low end of the comics business, pay wise, so perhaps their standards were lower. I know on some Charlton books they did lettering with a kind of giant typewriter (credited as A. Machine), and some of their artists like Joe Staton and Jim Aparo did their own lettering. That aside, all the advice and examples given above are perfectly fine for a beginner, and the information about the Ames Lettering Guide (spelled right here) is what put me in the know on that subject, and very similar to MY OWN instructions for new letterers. I never used the angled edge of the guide for italic guidelines, though, I just winged it, as did other letterers I learned from.

Here’s where Frank Bravo goes off the rails a bit, some of this is pretty dubious, though it does get the idea across. But, looking at these examples when I was trying to letter samples to show to the comics companies, I was already thinking, “I can do better than that!” I might have been wrong then, but once I got rolling it was true, at least. And remember, this booklet was all the help available to someone outside the business at the time, so really, I owe a lot to Charlton for it! They used to give these away with a subscription to any of their titles, and I bet they got a lot of subscriptions that way.

How To: Famous Artists Course on Lettering

Images © Famous Artists Cartoon Course, Inc. except as noted.

Someone on the Digital Webbing lettering forum recently posted a link to a PDF of interest to anyone who is a student of comics lettering, as I am. The Famous Artists School was begun in the 1940s by commercial illustrator Albert Dorne. If you’re a long-time comics reader you probably remember their ads in the comics, like this one:

Now, I have to admit that, while I did like to draw, when I was young it never occurred to me to send in for information about this mail-order art course. I can’t say why, maybe I just felt I was better off doing my own thing, but if I had subscribed to their Cartooning course, I’m sure I would have learned a lot from it, and maybe even become a comics artist. Possibly.

If I had persevered through the course to lesson 18, it would have taught me a lot about lettering for comics, too, and information about that was hard to come by when I was trying to get into comics in the mid 1970s. I did find and buy a small mini-comic how-to that included lettering published by Charlton Comics:

Image © Charlton Comics or the respective copyright holder.

It was written by Nicola Cuti, and had lettering tips and demos by Frank Bravo, and was quite helpful. Wish I knew where my copy went, I haven’t seen it in years. That was about all the information available in print at that point, as far as I knew, and I had to wait until I got on staff at DC Comics in their Production Department to learn more.

Back to the FACC lesson, it doesn’t say who wrote this Lettering how-to, but a number of popular comic strip artists were on the staff list—Rube Goldberg, Milton Caniff and Al Capp are still well-known names—and examples of their work and others are included. The perspective is very much geared toward newspaper strip artists, as you might expect.

Page two of the lesson shows pictures of a number of different dip pen points and lettering that could be made with them, a great idea! Now, when I started I was using Speedball dip pens, but mostly for larger lettering. For balloon lettering I followed the example of my first lettering teacher John Workman and used technical drawing pens. I don’t know if they were on the market when this lesson was written in the mid 1950s, but if so, they weren’t yet considered a lettering tool by the writer.

The course begins with a fine introduction outlining the importance of lettering as part of telling a story in cartooning. It also divides lettering into two main categories: balloon lettering and display lettering, with the latter being anything other than regular dialogue balloons and captions. I concur! But here’s something else in the text that I find interesting:

“It’s true that most successful comic strip men have an assistant to do their lettering. But, it is also true that each and every one of the men at the top is perfectly able to do his own lettering. The assistant merely saves him valuable time. If you are lucky enough to get a crack at being an established cartoonist’s assistant, you must be able to letter as well as the boss, preferably better.”

Now, there’s a window into an inviting world! And probably one that’s mostly passed us by now, but in the 1970s, if I’d read that, I’d have been itching to try to get into it! Ah, the days when comic strips paid really well, and each strip had it’s own staff of assistants…the few strip artists I know do it all themselves, and either letter it on a computer or have someone do that part for them.

As the course gets down to the practicalities of balloon lettering, they again show some dip pen points. I’ve used Speedball B-series points for larger balloon and display lettering, the others I don’t think I’ve used. Some I haven’t seen. For drawing guidelines they show a simple method of using a marked-out paper guide, as well as the plastic Ames Lettering Guide at lower right, though used incorrectly! I did a one-sheet lettering guide myself many years ago that has the correct position, you can find it HERE. I’m guessing the artist had never used it himself.

This practice stroke and letter shape guide is on firm ground, though the letterforms are not really what most cartoonists followed, rather they’re idealized type-like forms. Still, it’s not a bad starting point. And the examples below that of Bad Lettering are entertaining!

Here’s another amusing group of bad lettering samples. In general, the how-to’s in this lesson are fine, though.

Finally we get to putting lettering into balloon shapes. Whoever did these samples has a style with some nice bounce that would look fine on a humorous comic strip. Interesting that he chose a spelling of the word practice (practise) that is much more common in England than here. Also, he did not follow the advice for the letter I with crossbars from the previous diagram of Good and Bad Lettering, where it says, “Generally, most cartoonists put serifs on the letter “I” when it is a personal pronoun and omit them when it is a part of a word.” Something I’ve been saying for many years, and nice to see it reinforced here.

In all, this course is well done, and could have gotten anyone on the right track with hand-lettering. The Cartoon course was discontinued in the 1980s, perhaps due to the shrinking market for comics and comic strip artists, but not before serving some artists like Bernie Wrightson well — he cites it as a major learning tool. Just as well, they didn’t have to even consider computer lettering…! I believe the Famous Artists School still offers courses on drawing and painting, though. You can visit their WEBSITE for more information.

A FABLES page from pencils to print

Images © Bill Willingham and DC Comics, Inc., art by Mark Buckingham and Steve Leialoha, colors by Lee Loughridge, letters by Todd Klein.

At the San Diego con this year, inker Steve Leialoha showed me some of the original art for FABLES, and I found it intriguing for several reasons. First, Bucky is working almost at printed size instead of the usual larger art board size, about 150% of printed size. This shows Bucky’s great control of his linework. I’ve only known two other artists who worked at or close to printed size: Linda Medley on CASTLE WAITING, and Trevor Von Eeden back in the 1980s on THRILLER, among others. (A few artists like Gene Ha work at a size somewhere between art board and printed size, but not usually this small.) Note that this is the central portion of page 9, FABLES 108, not page 8, as Bucky has written at the top, so either he added a page after this one was finished, or counted wrong. As in all the FABLES art Bucky does, the narrow side panels are put in later, and are often repeated, with a particular pair for each setting or scene.

Here’s the other intriguing aspect of the art on these pages. Before sending the pencils to Steve Leialoha, Bucky paints gray washes over them, as seen here, sometimes doing a bit of the inking as well. Here he’s inked Bufkin’s eyes in the last panel, and I think a bit of linework on Bungle, the glass cat, as well as the panel borders. He’s also added shrubbery in mostly darker watercolor grays where there was nothing in the pencils. This is what Steve received from Bucky, and I don’t know if I’ve ever seen art done quite this way before: doing gray tones over pencils. Steve told me it’s not a problem for him to ink them, though it takes him longer than the standard way and size, and if anything doesn’t come out quite right he fixes it on the computer after scanning his finished inks. Frankly I don’t think there are many inkers who would be able to handle this as well as Steve, who is a fine artist in his own right.

Here’s the page with Steve’s great inks, and also with the side panel art added, which is entirely by Bucky. How Bucky can add the gray tones and have them come out so perfectly in tune with the inks is truly a mystery to me. It means he sees the inks in his head, I guess! This is what comes to me for lettering.

And here’s the page with the lettering, which I do using my own fonts in Adobe Illustrator. The green guideline shows where the page will be trimmed, and the red one shows the safe area for lettering. As usual, Bucky’s panels are well within that.

Colorist Lee Loughridge gets the inked art file at the same time I do, and he’s working on the coloring while I’m working on the lettering. Lee declines to discuss his process coloring over the gray washes, but the result sure is gorgeous! And I think when things are running late, he begins his coloring over the pencils. I have no idea how that can possibly work…! One thing that saves Lee some time, as it does Steve, is the repeated side panels. They only have to ink and color those once.

And here’s an approximation of what the printed page will look like, though the colors may not be as bright on paper as they are here, and a small edge will be trimmed off the side panels at each side.

Hope you’ve enjoyed a look into this unique FABLES art process!

Lettering for Moore and O’Neill

Images and script © Alan Moore and Kevin O’Neill.

Above is a photo of the script for the second 80-page issue of THE LEAGUE OF EXTRAORDINARY GENTLEMEN: CENTURY, this one dated 1969. It’s due out later this year, probably not until summer at latest report, but I’ve finished the first round of lettering, have sent color proofs to everyone, and am waiting for any further corrections or rewrites. Actually, this is not even the whole script, as it doesn’t include the six text pages at the end, but you get the idea. A lot to read and consider for artist Kevin O’Neill, colorist Ben Dimagmaliw and myself. Fortunately, it goes to Kevin first, and he does complete art on the pages before I get them for lettering, so I don’t have to study the entire script in detail, but can concentrate mainly on the dialogue and captions.

Alan doesn’t usually include many notes on lettering. In fact, Kevin is the one who decides where things should be in upper and lower case, as seen above.

Kevin sends me lettering placements as well, and I work closely with him, sending batches of lettered page proofs in black and white as I finish them, which Kevin goes over and gives me any corrections or changes he wants. We also work closely on the design of the covers and inside text pages.

Mostly, Alan gives us everything he can think of that might be relevant in the script, then lets us get on with doing the rest of it. So, when Alan does include lettering notes, I try extra hard to come up with something I think he’ll like. There are a couple of examples in this issue.

Without giving too much away, and I think one has to almost expect it, there’s a psychedelic drug trip in the story, one undertaken by Mina Murray. As it first appears in the script, Alan writes:

NOW WE HAVE A SHOT THROUGH MINA’S EYES AS SHE STARTS TO MILDLY EXPERIENCE THE FIRST EFFECTS OF THE DRUG SHE HAS TAKEN. WE CANNOT SEE MINA HERSELF HERE, BUT LOOMING IN FROM OUR LEFT OF THE FOREGROUND IN A SORT OF SWOLLEN FISH-EYE DISTORTION EFFECT, WE HAVE ORLANDO, HEAD AND SHOULDERS, HIS DISTORTED FACE LOOKING SORT OF CONCERNED HERE AS HE LEANS IN CLOSE TO PEER AT MINA. FROM THE NEAR RIGHT BACKGROUND, EQUALLY DISTORTED IN THE FISH-EYE LENS OF MINA’S VISION, ALLAN ALSO LEANS FORWARD, BEING ABOUT HALF TO THREE QUARTER FIGURE HERE. HE ALSO LOOKS A BIT CONCERNED ABOUT HOW ODDLY MINA IS BEHAVING.

Okay, nothing about the lettering there, but the dialogue has a repeated word effect, and in a side note, Kevin writes: “This is deliberate spelling, see page 47 for LSD effect.”

Not too hard to figure out what’s needed, a tripping effect that’s gradually developing. On this panel I made the repeated words in a variety of colors, and begin to introduce a rainbow gradient into the balloon colors.

On the next page we have another panel seen from Mina’s viewpoint, and as Alan writes:

BECAUSE MINA’S HALLUCINATIONS ARE GETTING STRONGER, MAYBE YOU COULD MAKE THE TWO HIPPIES LEANING IN TOWARDS MINA…IN INCREASINGLY PSYCHEDELIC AND DREAM-LIKE COLOURS.

Of course the colors are by Ben Dimagmaliw, following notes from Kevin, and I don’t see them when I’m doing the lettering, but I could imagine the effect this panel shows.

Here’s what I came up with, the lettering is now in full-blown rainbow gradient, with a lighter and more pastel gradient inside the balloons, and the borders in solid magenta. I also used Adobe Illustrator’s Envelope Distort feature to give the lettering some wavy distortion, and the balloons are amorphously shaped as well.

The setting for Mina’s trip is a rock concert in Hyde Park, London, and one of the focal points is the band’s lead singer. Alan had some specific suggestions for me about his dialogue balloons:

NOW, AS TO HOW WE HANDLE TERNER’S AMPLIFIED BALLOONS HERE, I’M NOT ENTIRELY SURE. WE COULD JUST HAVE ALL OF THEM IN A CRACKLE-EDGED BALLOON, BUT  SINCE I WANT THE SONG TERNER IS SINGING TO BE KIND OF PLAYING IN VOICEOVER DURING OUR CUTAWAY SCENES, A STRAIGHTFORWARD CRACKLE EDGE MIGHT BE TOO SPIKY AND OBTRUSIVE. IS THERE ANY OTHER SORT OF BALLOON EDGE THAT YOU CAN COME UP WITH, TODD, THAT SORT OF CONVEYS ELECTRICAL AMPLIFICATION WITHOUT THE SPIKES? HOW ABOUT SOME SORT OF WOBBLY, WAVERY EDGE TO SUGGEST THE DISTORTION OF AMPLIFIED VOICES OVER A TANNOY OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT? ANYWAY, I’LL LEAVE IT IN YOUR HANDS.

I felt I understood what Alan was after, and here’s what I came up with:

I don’t know how well the details of the balloon edges will show when printed, but there are actually three layers to them. The balloons are filled with 75% yellow, to suggest electrical amplification, and have a dark orange border. I used Illustrator’s Roughen filter to give them a randomly wobbly edge. Then, for each balloon oval I made a copy, pasted it in front, removed the fill color (leaving only the outline), reduced the outline width and flipped it left to right, then made the color a lighter orange. Next I copied THAT balloon shape again, pasted it in front once more, and flipped it vertically, top to bottom, then made the color of this third layer an even lighter orange. The resulting balloon borders have what I hope is a randomly energetic and electrical look without the spiky edges I’d usually use, as Alan has asked for. When this was done I added the balloon tails and connectors, placing them behind the rest, and since the borders crossed the tails I added another small section of yellow fill with no border to cover each of those overlaps. A pretty complicated process for this style, and there’s a lot of it, but I think it achieves what Alan suggested.

On a later page Mina’s trip has taken her spirit right out of her body, and for that we needed another style, and a different one for the evil astral spirit she encounters there, floating above the concert. Alan writes about Mina:

HER WORD BALLOONS HERE…AND INDEED THROUGHOUT THIS ASTRAL SEQUENCE…SHOULD MAYBE HAVE SOME KIND OF RAINBOW JELLY EDGE TO THEM, OR COLOURED LETTERING, OR WHATEVER ELSE TODD THINKS WOULD WORK BEST TO CONVEY THE FACT THAT THIS IS MINA’S ASTRAL VOICE THAT SHE’S USING HERE.

Small problem, I’d already used the rainbow effects for the earlier tripping panels, but I saw no reason why I couldn’t use them again here, since it’s all related.

I followed the same plan, but with a medium blue border that I hoped would contrast enough from the previous magenta one to give it at least some individuality. The rainbow gradients are also slightly paler. As it turned out, Ben colored Mina’s astral form in yellows, so that all worked well, I thought.

For the other spirit, Alan writes (with one name deleted to keep from from any possible plot spoiling):

AS WITH MINA, _____’S SPEECH BALLOON HERE SHOULD HAVE A SIMILAR KIND OF DIFFERENT EDGE, TO DENOTE THAT THIS IS _____’S ASTRAL VOICE TALKING. SINCE HIS SPIRIT IS MUCH DARKER AND MORE MONSTROUS THAN MINA’S, MAYBE YOU COULD MAKE _____’S SPEECH-BALLOON EDGING OR COLOURING RELECT THIS, WHILE KEEPING IT IN THE SAME BASIC STYLE AS MINA’S, TODD?

I thought the way to go was with gradients made from dark and mismatched colors for the balloon fill, and the lettering and balloon borders would be reversed out of that in a hopefully disturbing yellow-orange:

I’m not sure how successfully dark and evil it is, but at least it’s a stark contrast to Mina’s balloon style, sort of the antithesis of it. For this character I decided not to give the lettering a wavy distortion, thinking he’s more in control of his astral state, and the lettering should reflect that.

As you’ll eventually see when the book comes out, the styles for Terner, Mina and the evil spirit are used often in the climactic sequence of pages, all intertwined, and it was a lot of work getting it together, but I’m happy with the result. Hope you like it as well. Kevin and Alan both still have to give their final thumbs up, so if anything looks different in the end, that’ll be why. It’s always a fun and interesting challenge working with them, and I’m already looking forward the third and final issue of the CENTURY series, though I expect it will be a while before I see pages to letter.

New Lettering Blog

Image © Jim Campbell.

I never seem to have time to write much about lettering anymore, but someone else is stepping into the breach. British letterer Jim Campbell has recently begun a new blog with the focus on lettering how-to’s, critiques, and helpful hints, among other things. You can find it HERE. And as soon as I get a chance I’ll be adding it to my Blogroll on the left, which is due for some updating…a number of the folks on it can’t seem to be bothered to post even once a month, so out they go, and new ones will be chosen. Hope I can get back to writing about logos and lettering sometime soon, but it’s been non-stop hectic for me since at least June. Hence the reviews, which take less time.

Punctuating Comics: Dots and Dashes

I received an email recently from David Norman that I thought might lead to an interesting topic here. With his permission, here’s an excerpt:

I’ve been a long-time reader of your blog, and I was wondering if you could answer my question, as noted in the subject heading: why is the double hyphen still used in comic book lettering when the en-dash (or em-dash) is so much more elegant? I can’t see any reason for it other than “that’s the way it’s always been done.” As the source of all things lettering, I hope you would be able to tell me.

First, let’s be clear on the terms used above, as they appear in print. A hyphen (or regular dash) is what connects words like four-color, and also used when a word is broken into two lines, or hyphenated. An en-dash is a longer line, rarely used, but sometimes seen between parts of a phone number as in 555–1212. In many fonts it’s nearly indistinguishable from a hyphen. An em-dash, so called because it’s about the length of the lower case “m”, is used to indicate a quick pause in speech,  or set off a brief interruption in a statement, such as “His first thought—if there was one—was to scream.”

Another bit of punctuation that is similar to the em-dash is the ellipsis, a series of three periods: … which can indicate a missing word in a sentence, or again a pause in thought, but a more leisurely one. A good example is from Bram Stoker’s “Dracula” when the title character says, “I never drink…wine.”

This and all images © DC Comics, Inc.

Punctuation in comics was fluid and erratic in the early days, not surprising for a new medium. Letterers, whether they were the artist on the story or a separate person, pretty much made their own choices as they went along. In these panels from the very first Superman story from the 1930s, the first caption begins with an ellipsis, continuing a sentence from the panel before it, and ends with a double dash (or double hyphen if you like), indicating the sentence continues further. But the next caption again begins with an ellipsis, so a more logical thing to put at the end of the first caption would have also been an ellipsis. That’s how I was taught to do it when I began lettering in 1977: connect two parts of a sentence with EITHER a pair of ellipses or a pair of double dashes.

Why the double dash instead of the em-dash? As you can see in the doctor’s balloon above, a very long em-dash is used there, and you do see it in some older comics stories. But when comics got to the point where scripts were typed out on a typewriter for someone to copy when lettering, the usual way to indicate an em-dash was a double dash, since there was no em-dash symbol on a typewriter. Typesetters and printers knew to convert the double dash to an em-dash when a typewritten script was copied into set type, but letterers probably didn’t know or follow that convention, and the double dash gradually became the common form.

Here are two panels from one of the first Batman stories in DETECTIVE COMICS #31, 1939. The caption ends with an ellipsis indicating an open-ended statement, another common use of it. But the doctor’s balloon below has a real hodge-podge of punctuation. After the second YES is what I think is meant to be an em-dash, but it’s quite short and aligned with the bottom of the letters instead of the center. Another longer one is below. And after the word PARIS are two periods, which are meant to be an ellipsis. You can find similar uses with from two to about six periods in old comics, perhaps showing that letterers then didn’t really know what they were supposed to be putting in. And the final word is underlined instead of emphasized in the more usual way by making it bolder, or bold and italicized. I can still remember DC editor Julie Schwartz yelling at me when I made a similar mistake just starting out in lettering, “We NEVER underline in comics!”

In this FLASH story from 1949, toward the end of the Golden Age, lettering has become more standardized, at least at DC Comics, but there are still some odd variations in the dots and dashes here. In the first panel we have ellipses that are centered vertically on the letters instead of aligned with the bottoms, as they are in the caption. And in the other balloons we have some double dashes, and also some longer single dashes—about the size of an en-dash—performing the same function.

A few years later, in this first Silver Age FLASH story from 1956, probably lettered by Gaspar Saladino, the punctuation has become much more standardized, with only the double dash, ellipsis and hyphen used. Editor Julie Schwartz may have had a hand in this, as he was big on rules and traditions.

So, to finally answer the original question by David, here’s what I had to say:

Yes, it’s all about tradition. When comics began, scripts were produced on a typewriter, and the common typewritten version of an em-dash was a double-hyphen. That became part of the comics vocabulary, and remains so for many readers, not to mention writers and editors. I sometimes use the em-dash when I’m lettering in upper and lower case, but when using the traditional all upper-case style, the double hyphen is what looks best to me.

Creating BEFORE YOU READ THIS part 5


All images ©Neil Gaiman and Todd Klein, except where noted.

Above is the print in final form with both signatures, and most of the text once again blurred so those who order it can enjoy reading their own copy when it arrives. ADDED: Some time has now passed, many people have seen the completed print, and I’ve replaced that blurred copy with an unblurred one. After completing painting the white moon and candle flames on the first half of the print run I added my signature at lower right using a black Elegant Writer Extra Fine Point calligraphy marker, which has a wedge point, allowing for thick and thin line variations.

This gives a result similar to the real ink pen I used to letter Neil’s text, though the ink is grayer and the point not as consistent. Works fine for signatures, though. This is my “artist” signature, my regular one is quite different, and it actually has an origin. I discovered J.R.R. Tolkien’s THE LORD OF THE RINGS in the 1960s and quickly became fascinated by the calligraphic alphabets he used to decorate the title pages of the hardcover edition, with the full alphabets shown in the appendices at the end of book three. I often used to copy them.

©J.R.R. Tolkien.

When THE ROAD GOES EVER ON, A SONG CYCLE, was published in 1967, with Tolkien’s poems set to music by Donald Swann, it contained more examples of his alphabet and calligraphy. An excerpt is above. I copied those, too. I can’t say I really understood everything he was doing, but I liked the letterforms and thick and thin lines. You can see already that one of them became the T in my artist signature, and other letters were similarly rounded.

What really clinched it for me was this actual Tolkien autograph acquired for me by a good friend (a story for another time). The man himself had a signature that used the same T, and it dawned on me that “Todd Klein” and “Tolkien” shared a lot of letters. Well, always steal from the best, I say. (No, wait, I stole that motto from someone…)

When the first half of the prints were signed by me I packed them up and shipped them to Neil, where he signed them in using a dark purple fountain pen ink called “Tanzanite”, probably after the mineral. Then he shipped them back to me. This is Neils “signing things” signature: scrawled but nicely stylized. There’s quite a lot of variety in the 500 copies I now have; variety of size and shape, but all clearly Neil’s signature. I imagine he probably signs other things somewhat differently. I do have one old example from a postcard he sent me around 1990:

More complete, more like his handwriting, which I think Neil would admit probably didn’t reward him with high marks in penmanship in school, but it gets the message across. I shouldn’t talk, my regular handwriting is pretty scrawly sometimes.

So, I’m almost finished painting the second half of the prints, and will repeat the above process with them. Once I’ve sent them off to Neil, I have other preparations to make. I have to order packing and shipping supplies. 1000 tabloid-size plastic sleeves, and 800 mailing tubes. Now, I’m planning to allow folks to buy either one or two copies of the print, so I probably won’t need that many sleeves or tubes, but better to have too many than not enough, as I found out the hard way with the first printing of “Alphabets of Desire.” The tubes take up a lot of space.

Here’s the 100 I have on hand at the moment, 50 in each box. Multiply that by eight. I’ll put some upstairs with these, and some down in my studio. When I have both sleeves and tubes, I’ll prepack 300 singles and 100 doubles to give me a good head start.

Another thing I have to prepare are the customs forms for those going outside the U.S. I do as much as I can ahead, leaving just the shipping date and contents to fill in. Oh, and if you look closely you’ll see my other signature. Those of you ordering from other countries will get one on your tube. I’ll ready a few hundred of these.

Once everything is complete I’ll be able to set a firm publication date and announce it here on my blog. Those of you signed up for my “first notified” mailing list will get the information first, with some additonal info not found here. Want to sign up? Click the JOIN MY MAILING LIST link on the sidebar. At the moment it’s looking like the on-sale date will be some time soon after June 15th.

Hope you enjoyed this exhaustive look at how Neil’s print was made. I’m putting links to all the parts below, in case you missed any. You read about my other prints on my SIGNED PRINTS page, and find ordering information there, or on my BUY STUFF page.

PART 1

PART 2

PART 3

PART 4

Creating BEFORE YOU READ THIS part 4

All images ©Neil Gaiman and Todd Klein.

How did this cat help me find the best way to finish Neil’s print? Bridget is the older of our two cats, and very sweet, but in my experience cats are never intentionally helpful. That’s more of a dog thing. Occasionally they can be helpful inadvertently, though, as was the case here. More on that in a moment.

Having finished the digital version of the print, my next task was to physically print it. I had searched online paper suppliers for 11 by 17 inch paper stock in gray, and had found very little. One medium gray card stock did turn up, but it was considerably thicker than what I had used for Alan’s print, so I was reluctant to try it. Plus it was three times as expensive. So, I settled for the only gray in the same stock I had used before, Wausau Exact Vellum Bristol. Paper thickness goes by “weight”, but that’s a tricky and sometimes misleading number. A better way is to measure the actual thickness with a caliper. Regular copy paper is about 4 mils thick in a caliper. This Vellum Bristol is about 7.5 mils. Card stock can go as thick as 13 mils, and drawing paper can be much thicker than that.

I have a large format laser printer, a Xerox Phaser 5500N, that can print up to 11 by 17 inches. I rarely need to use that size these days. It was more important during the transition period between all hand-lettered comics and digitally lettered comics. In those times I often needed to print out scans of pencilled art DC and other companies sent me on large paper so I could letter over it on tracing paper. It’s just as well I don’t need the large size much now, as this particular printer has never done well with the large paper. About half the time it jams or comes through all crinkled and unusable. When I printed “Alphabets of Desire,” I considered having it done at Staples or a print shop, but thought I’d try it myself first, and in a stroke of luck found the heavier weight paper fed through my printer just fine, as long as I hand-fed each piece. Above, you can see that process, except that I’m not standing there feeding in the paper.

Some people have reacted in horror to my telling them I print these myself, but in fact it’s easy and quick. I can print 250 copies in about a half hour. Occasionally they fail to feed through, but I then simply need to open and reclose the feeder door, and I’m ready to go again. And I’ve only had to throw out one sheet so far.

With printed copies ready, I needed to add the final layer to the print: paint. In this case I wanted to paint a white circle representing the full moon, and white candle flames. For the paint, I chose Pro White, which I’ve been using for art and lettering corrections since I began working in comics. On the jar they call it an opaque white watercolor. I suspect it’s similar to white animation cel paint. It’s somewhat like Titanium White acrylic paint, but it goes on very smoothly, covers well, and dries quicker than acrylic. My one concern was what would happen to it when the prints were rolled to be put in mailing tubes, so I did a sample, left it rolled for a day, and unrolled it. It seemed fine, and hopefully that won’t cause any problems. I have comics art from the 1970s with Pro White paint on it, and it seems to hold up fine, and keeps its white color better than the art paper, so I am pretty confident it will be fine on the prints.

Back to the cat. I needed to find a way to paint a nearly perfect circle on each one without a struggle. My first thought was to use a circle template like a stencil, and I did a test, but didn’t like the result. The paint crept under the edge, leaving a rough shape that wasn’t round enough. Something I could paint and stamp onto the paper seemed a better idea, but what? I searched the house, and couldn’t find anything I thought would work. That evening, as I was feeding the cats, it came to me.

Bridget has a heart murmur (which doesn’t seem to affect her at all, by the way), and twice a day I need to give her a quarter pill of Propanolol in a small meatball of wet cat food. As I was doing that, I looked closer at her pill bottle. It was the right size, and around the bottom was a slight rim that would make a perfect stamping device! Okay, so the cat had no idea, but I thought it would make a cute story…

That evening at my drawing board I mixed some Pro White in my paint holder, an end cap from a mailing tube. The paint is too thick as it comes in the jar, so I need to add water. My brush for white paint is a Winsor & Newton Series 233 size 4, made with white synthetic bristles that come to a good point.

Then I painted the rim on the bottom of the pill bottle…

…and stamped it gently onto the paper. For positioning, I had added a slightly smaller pale gray circle to the print to use as a target.

Here’s the result — worked like a charm! And, no need to clean off the pill bottle each time, I just let the paint build up. I try to paint 50 prints at a sitting, and as I went along the painted rim got thicker with paint build-up, but not enough to change the process. I did, of course, clean it between batches.

Next I painted in around the inside of the circle…

…and filled in the center. The paint shows the brush strokes here, but dries a more even white with a slight gloss, sort of an eggshell finish.

That left the candle flames, an easier task. Ideally, one thin brush stroke for each side of each flame, then fill in the center. It doesn’t always go that way, though, and sometimes I have to noodle it to get the shape I want.

And that’s what I’ve been working on since the beginning of May. It takes about an hour and three quarters to paint 50 prints, so about two minutes each. Not bad, but it does take time for me to get to them all, mainly in the evenings after dinner. The first half have been sent to Neil, who is signing them as I work on the second half.

Here’s the print painted, with the text once again mostly blurred. All that remained for me to do before sending them to Neil was to sign them myself. Nearly done with this excruciatingly detailed account, but I guess I can milk one more part out of it covering signatures, packing and shipping. I’ll do that next time, once I have the first half back from Neil.

PART 1

PART 2

PART 3

PART 5

Creating BEFORE YOU READ THIS part 3

All Images ©Neil Gaiman and Todd Klein.

This time I’m focusing on the gray tones added to the inked art on the computer. Above is the nearly final version of that, with most of the text once more blurred so that, when you order and receive yours, you can enjoy reading it for the first time then.

My original idea for the atmosphere of the print involved printing the text and line art in black on a medium gray paper. Unfortunately, the only appropriate gray paper I could find was a very pale gray which is hardly noticeable until you put it next to something really white. So I decided I needed to add some gray tones to the background to give it the night-sky look I was thinking of. This turned out to be a much better solution, I think, as it gives the image more depth and realism than the line art on gray alone would have.

I knew I wanted to have an impression of rays radiating from the moon, and couldn’t think of a way to get that in Photoshop, so I created the above radial pattern in Adobe Illustrator using gray beams on a paler gray background, both getting lighter toward the center. There were two problems with this when I imported it into the background of the art. First, the lines were too well defined, the stripes too distracting, making it hard to focus on the text. Second, a moiré pattern was formed by the lines, especially toward the center. You can see it in the above image, those starburst-like shapes in the image. This is an optical illusion in this case, not an actual printed moiré, but when printed it would become one, and in either case was another distraction. So I needed to blur the radial pattern quite a bit to remove both those problems. I lost some of the impact of the moon rays, but preserved the readability of the text, which is more important.

You can see some of the rays behind the text here in the upper left corner, and where they end, I’ve used Photoshop airbrush effects to add gray clouds. This was done around all the edges of the ray area. Rather fun, using different size brushes, different shades of gray, until you get something that works. And always in a layer below the line art, so that remained untouched. In the top banner, where the titles and credits are, I added a simple gray gradient getting lighter toward the bottom, complimenting the way the title letters get thinner at the bottom.

Here’s another section showing some of the geese, with rays and clouds. This is the version on the large image at the beginning of this post, and it remained this way for a while, but as I kept looking at it, something seemed wrong to me. Finally I realized the pure white areas of the geese didn’t read correctly for a night sky. In life they’d probably just be solid black silhouettes. For my purposes I wanted the light areas to show, but needed them to be a darker gray than the backgound.

Here they are with that added, which works much better, I think. Finally, the candle flames needed to have lighter glow highlights around them.

Easily done with a Photoshop airbrush and a very light gray color. When everything was as I wanted it, I printed a sample. A few spots needed minor tweaks, but it was mostly fine. Oh, and perhaps you’re wondering what happened to the actual moon and candle flame shapes seen in the inked version? Those would be added in the next and final step in the process. After printing they’d be painted in on each print with white paint. More on that next time!

PART 1

PART 2

PART 4

PART 5

Creating BEFORE YOU READ THIS part 2

©Neil Gaiman and Todd Klein.

This time we’re talking about inks and scanning. Above is the print after both, with most of the text blurred out, which I’m continuing to do so that when you finally get your copy, you can have the pleasure of reading it all then.

For inking this print I used my tried and true inking tools, some shown above. The text was inked with a Speedball dip pen using a C6 point, the smallest wedge-tipped one. I don’t actually dip the pen in the ink bottle, though, I fill the small reservoir above the point with the ink dropper from the bottle. One or two drops is all you need. For the titles, initial capital B and borders I used Faber-Castell TG1-S technical drawing pens, like the one above. The size marker on it says it’s a size 1 (0.40mm), but that’s not true. I actually have a size 0 (0.35mm) point in that pen, the smallest size I use. The ink is Calli Jet Black India #010, used in both the dip pen and the tech pen. It’s part of a supply I bought about 10 years ago, don’t know if it’s still available or not. If I were buying ink today, I’d go with Higgins Super Black, which is also fine for lettering.

Here’s my drawing board setup, showing some of the tools used to create the inked print. Circle and oval templates were used on the titles and borders, as well as the T-square and triangle. A smaller triangle, hard to see at right, and a small french curve were also used on the titles. The text was all lettered freehand. The circle for the moon was, of course, done with the circle template. The geese and candles were inked freehand with the tech pens, the 0 for outlines, larger points for filling in. When it was all inked to my satisfaction (and, remarkably, I didn’t need to paint out any large mistakes with white paint and redo), I erased the remaining pencil lines with a white Magic-Rub eraser and brushed the crumbs off with the crumb brush, seen at upper right. Now I was ready to scan it.

My scanner is a Microtek ScanMaker 9800XL, which has a scan area of about 12 by 17 inches. This is larger than most scanners, but ideal for scanning comics art, as you can do the entire page in one go, in most cases. (Occasionally comics art is done larger than 11 by 17, but that’s rare.) Above is the upper left corner as scanned, actual size, without any adjustments except for a little increase in contrast. It looks pretty good, but I know from experience that there are little imperfections that I can improve in Adobe Photoshop, and that process is my next step. First I convert the color scan to grayscale, then increase the contrast even more to make sure all my black areas look solid black, and to eliminate any ghosts of pencil lines or dirt. Then I convert the grayscale to bitmap, a file format that has only black or white. My original scan is at 600dpi, so even though the bitmap will change all edges to hard lines, it will still look fine.

Here’s a closeup of just the decorative B, in bitmap format, and with minor imperfections cleaned up. You can see how the edges are now very precise, but the cleanups are probably not evident, so I’ll show you a better, and closer, example.

Here’s a raw scan of part of the title. Notice how the lower points of the I and S are not very well pointed. And there are little extra blobs of ink in other areas that I’ll remove in Photoshop, using the selection and eraser tools.

Here’s the same area, in bitmap format, with all the edges and points fixed. This process takes hours, but it gives me the result I’m looking for. Most of the changes are subtle, but do affect the final printed result enough to make it worth doing. And since I’ve inked the entire print at actual printed size, I feel it’s a great help to go through the process. When I hand-letter comics pages (rarely now), I’m lettering at a larger size than it will be printed. Most comics art is reduced to between 64 and 66 percent before printing. This lessens the impact of small imperfections in my work.

Some tiny details can be lost in this process, but you can’t have everything. For instance, above is a section of raw scan showing some of the geese.

Here’s the lead goose in bitmap format, enlarged, as it will appear on the print. As you can see, some of the shading in the wings has filled in. But it still works fine for me.

When the fixes are finished, I convert the entire scan back to grayscale format, because I’m not done with the art yet. I now want to add a background of light gray texture showing light radiating from the moon, and around that, gray clouds, making a more convincing night scene behind all the text. I’ll talk about how I did that next time.

PART 1

PART 3

PART 4

PART 5